Road Bikes
The freedom the of open road, there is nothing else like it. Taking on a triathlon, pedaling down a country road, or getting out with your friends on a group ride has never had so many options. Here you will find everything you need to know about the differences in component groups, difference in styles of road bikes, and the tire size that is right for you. We have provided a wealth of other information which will help to guide you through your purchase of your first road bike, the upgrade you always wanted, or a new component group.
Endurance
Conquering a climb or having a long ride in the saddle has never been easier than on an endurance road bike. Incorporating key geometric features such as a slackened head-tube angle, thicker tires for enhanced grip aswell as maximized power transfer, and greater comfort for the long days in the saddle. An endurance bike is a great option for someone who is new to the sport, a cycling veteran looking for a more comfortable ride, and riders searching for a bike that can handle a commute or tour.
Performance
The Jack-of-All Trades, the master of everything, the Perfect combination. Performance bikes bring together every aspect of cycling into under one umbrella. Seamlessly overlapping the comfort and hill climb efficiency of Endurance bikes with the speed, weight, and agility of Race-Oriented bikes, performance bikes are the one-size-fits-all bike for riders of any riding ability. Whether you are new to the sport, a racing veteran, or if cycling is just a hobby for you, it will be clear upon the first few cranks that a performance bike is the right option. Don't buy a bike for every style of riding, get the best bang for your buck by choosing to invest in one bike that will tackle any challenge.
Race
The sports cars of the cycling world, race oriented road bikes are the kings of the street. Whether you are looking to win your criterium race, compete in a Gran Fondo, or just looking to take some local Strava KOMs; a race road bike is the machine you want to pedal. Race Geometry features short chain-stays, steep head-tube angles, and the most efficient, aerodynamic, frame designs. The aggressive ride of the bike offers the ability to attack any hill, subdue any opponent on a sprint, and allows you to experience the most responsive ride the industry has to offer. Having a race bike doesn't mean you need to be a pro to ride it, it just shows that you take your ride seriously.
Frame Material
Carbon
he choice of many cyclists across all disciplines. Carbon fiber is made up of polycarbonate fibers which are woven together and then treated giving the structure high tinsel strength, similar to that of metal, availability for a small amount of flex which offers comfort in your ride. The attraction to carbon comes from it'ts resemblance in comfort to that of a steel frame. Combined with the weight of an aluminum frame, Carbon Fiber brings in the best of both aluminum and steel. Carbon has a similar density to steel without all of the weight, thus it offers protection against all of the road vibration which causes fatigue which aluminum cannot offer due to its molecular properties. All manufacturers offer between two and three levels of carbon fiber and the difference between those levels is the rigidity level and the amount of carbon which is used in manufacturing. The base level carbon fiber is thicker and offers slightly more flex than the higher tiers. This layup is perfect for those looking to get into their first carbon bike as it is an upgrade from alloy frames and is attainable no matter your budget. The mid-level carbon is a bit stiffer and thus lighter than the entry-level, featuring less compliance, transferring more of your power to the ground rather than losing some of that efficiency to frame flex. Finally, the top of line carbon. Commonly seen to on SLR or Project One Trek Bikes and S-Works Carbon Bikes, this level of carbon falls into the "pick it up with your finger" weight category due to its high rigidity and minimal amount of frame material. This level is sought after by bike activists, enthusiasts, and racers alike. No matter your level of riding, or your budget, carbon fiber is the way to go if you're looking to just get into the sport or if you're looking for an upgrade.
Aluminum
As the original replacement for steel frames, aluminum offers a lightweight frame with supreme rigidity. Aluminum is a very lightweight, yet not very dense metal, which translates to high power transfer and not much weight. Aluminum, like carbon, comes in a few different grades. The economy grade offers the same rigidity of the highest grade with a bit more material, adding weight to the bike. As the grades move up there is no sacrifice in the feel of the bike in any way other than the weight, meaning that the aluminum gets thinner and lighter. The thickness of the alloy frames has no effect on their structure, it just offers a bit of a lighter ride which leads to less fatigue down the road. Furthermore, because aluminum is not the densest of materials, alloy frames are paired with a carbon fiber fork which acts as a dampener, eating up some of the road vibration that you will encounter on a typical ride. Alloy frames are perfect bikes for those who commute, those looking to get into the sport, or those looking to trek further distances with more gear. All alloy bikes come from the factory tapped and ready to accept all different kinds of accessories including, racks, bags, and fenders. The benefits of an aluminum bike are endless and due to their ease of manufacturing compared to their carbon counterparts, their price makes the decision to buy alloy a no-brainer. Come see why an aluminum bike is the choice for you on a test ride!
Shimano Claris
Entry Level Drivetrain
Found on Bikes Priced Between $599-$750
2x8-Speed
Found on Entry Level Road Bikes
Found on Mid-High Level Hybrid Bikes
Shimano Sora
Mid-Entry Level Drivetrain
Found on Bikes Priced Between $730-$900
2x9-Speed
Found on Entry Level Road Bikes
Found on Mid-High Level Hybrid Bikes
Shimano Tiagra
Mid Level Drivetrain
Found on Bikes Priced Between $900-$1900
2x10-Speed
Found on Mid Level Road Bikes
Found on High-End Road Bikes
Shimano 105
Mid-High Level Drivetrain
Found on Bikes Priced Between $1200-$3000
2x11-Speed
Found on Mid-High Level Road Bikes
Found on High-End Hybrid Bikes
Shimano Ultegra
High-End Drivetrain
Found on Bikes Priced Between $2300-
2x11-Speed
Found on High-End and Custom Road Bikes
Available in Electronic Shift Version
Shimano Dura-Ace
High-End Professional Drivetrain
Found on Bikes Priced Between $4000-
2x11-Speed
Found on High-End and Custom Road Bikes
Available in Electronic Shift Version
Electronic Shift Vs. Cable Shift
Electronic Actuated Shifting Systems
Shifting the way it should be. Featuring a battery hidden inside of the seat-post, wires disguised inside of the frame, and derailleurs seamlessly equipped with electronic motors to move them, you can experience the easiest and most efficient way to shift gears offered on any bicycle. With the touch of a button, your bike will do all the work for you during a shift so that you do not need to worry about cables dragging in the housing, improper cable tension, and absolutely no sacrifice in stability from trying to swing your brake lever from side to side in to engage your shifter, thus giving you the best riding experience to date. Utilizing the power of a long-lasting lithium-Ion battery, you will not need to worry about running out of juice in the middle of a ride as every full charge of the battery will last you 700-1000 miles depending on the frequency of your shifting. Inaccurately viewed as the "heated seats" or "air-conditioned steering wheel" of the cycling world, this shifting system is not a luxury but a necessity for those looking to get the most out of their ride without all of the hassle that comes with cable shifting systems. Furthermore, the electronic systems are completely and totally waterproof so you can ride without worry about weather or wet road conditions. The biggest concern with electronic shifting is the idea of repairing it in the event of a crash or drop of the bike. You do not need to be an electrician to own a drivetrain like these as it has built-in diagnostic and a "Crash Mode" which self analyzes and adjusts the derailleurs in the event of a crash or drop so that you can still get home and get the bike to us or your local shop for repair. Bring your bike into the 21st Century and allow yourself to experience a ride like no other with and electronic actuated drivetrain today!
Cable Actuated Shifting Systems
Proven technology for decades. Bicycles have been using cable driven shifting systems since the early 1900s, why change now? Utilizing refined versions of classic technology, cable actuated drivetrains are the choice of most riders from the professional level all the way to the most casual. Making use of lubricated, thin, high-tinsel steel cables and ratchet style index shifters, shifting has never been so smooth. The benefits of sticking with cables are clear. Cables are inexpensive to buy and do not need to be replaced often. Instead of bringing your bike in to get a simple derailleur adjustment, you have the ability to adjust your own equipment at home or out on the road if there is ever an issue. Enjoy peace of mind knowing that there is no firmware to update, electronic shortages to be had, or batteries to forget to charge with a cable actuated system. Go out and enjoy your ride on a bike equipped with drivetrain technology that has stood the test of time.
Electronic Shift FAQs
How long does it take for a battery to fully charge and houw long does it last?
Approximately 1.5 hours. to a full charge and from a full charge, a battery will last for approximately 700-1000 miles depending on the number of shifts you make on an average ride.
Can any bike be set up with electronic shift?
Any bike with internally routed cabling, or the option for it, can be set up with an electronic shifting system.
Are there health benefits to electronic shifting?
Yes! For those of riders with wrist problems, carpel tunnel, or other mobility issues involving hands or wrists; electronic shifting is the solution to the pain that you experience when shifting a cable actuated drivetrain. By only requiring the push of a button rather than the pain of throwing the break levers from side to side, you will have greater stability and comfort in your ride.
How do I know if my battery is running low?
In the event of a low battery, your bike will cease to shift the front derailleur as this takes the most energy to shift, thus entering a state of power conservation. Furthermore, there is a battery indicator in the junction box featuring green, yellow, and red lights representing full, medium, and low charge respectively.
How often should I charge my battery?
Batteries should be charged on a pretty regular basis, depending on how much you ride. In order to eliminate your risk of running out of battery mid ride, you should charge your battery once every few weeks, this will ensure you are always fully charged and ready to tackle the road ahead.
How often do I need to get firmware updates?
Firmware updates occur occasionally and they clean up the shifting system. When you bring your bike in for service or a tune up it will get plugged in to out Shimano Service Center computer where we will run a diagnostic to ensure your bike is operating up to snuff. If at that time there is a firmware update, we will update it for you, no charge! If you do not update your firmware for a long time, you don't need to worry as no harm will be done to your bike.
Cable Shift FAQs
How long does a shift cable last?
Cables can last from 1 to 10+ years depending on use and conditions of storage.
Should I replace my cables?
You do not need to replace your cables unless they break but replacing cables can improve shifting quality.
Are brake and shift cables the same?
No, brake and shift cables are not the same and they should not be interchanged. though they look very similar, they are different diameters and thus are not safe to be interchanged.
Do cables stretch?
Steel cables will not stretch more than a millimeter at most which will not effect shifting in most cases. The idea of "cable stretch" comes from the cable housing, not the actual cable. Cable housing collapses as it breaks into the bike thus cables need to be re-tensioned as their guide settles.
Can I adjust my own cables?
With the proper know-how, anyone can adjust their own cables. It is recommended that if you feel that cables need to be re-tensioned or adjusted that you bring your bike to us or your local bike shop as improper cable adjustment could lead to further damage on your bicycle, which can turn costly.
Should I replace my housing when I replace my cables?
Though it is not required, replacing cable housing will further improve your shifting. Housing and Cables both come with a lubricative coating on them allowing the cable to move smoothly in the housing with minimal friction. As the cable and housing wear, the lubrication on them wears off and thus there is more drag on the cable as it moves through the housing therefore, replacing the housing with the cable is always recommended.
Tire Sizing Guide
700 x 25/26c
The most efficient tire size. Found on Performance and Race models
Ride Longer on the tire with the least rolling resistance. With the thinnest tire recommended you will not be disappointed by the speed, handling, and weight of this tire size. Though not the fattest tire around, this tire size offers the best control and gives the most for the amount of effort you put in, meaning you will ride faster for longer and not feel bogged down by riding with too much resistance.
700 x 28c
The Middle Man. Found on Performance and Endurance Models
Handle rougher roads without losing too much of your energy to rolling resistance. Adding just 2-3mm to your tire width offers a world of opportunities to ride dirt roads, handle chip-sealed roads comfortably, and, due to their lower tire pressure, keep your hands from feeling too much road vibration. With all tread styles available you will never be disappointed or ill-equipped for any terrain you will encounter. Ride longer distances with greater comfort on a 28mm tire.
700 x 32c
The most comfortable tire size. Found on Endurance Models and Gravel Grinders
Make Your Bike Your Own
Road Bikes are finely tuned machines designed to be ridden hard. Out of the box, road bikes are generally fit in order to work for any rider but in order to get your new bike, or your existing bike, working to its full capacity, a fitting is a must. Our fit specialist is here and ready to dial in your bike to fit any needs you have and turn your bike into an extension of your body.